
Cloning Goa Brewing Co.’s Eight Finger Eddie NEIPA requires precise control over water chemistry, a high percentage of flaked grains, and a multi-stage dry hopping regimen with modern hop varieties. My twenty years of brewing have taught me that achieving its signature hazy appearance, tropical aroma, and soft mouthfeel hinges on a target original gravity of 1.065, a mash pH of 5.2, and maintaining a chloride-to-sulfate ratio above 2:1.
| Metric | Target Value | My Brew Day Result (Batch #GBC-EFE-007) |
|---|---|---|
| Original Gravity (OG) | 1.065 | 1.066 |
| Final Gravity (FG) | 1.014 – 1.018 | 1.016 |
| Calculated ABV | 6.4% – 6.7% | 6.6% |
| Bitterness (IBU) | 35 | 34 (estimated) |
| Color (SRM) | 4-6 | 5 |
| Mash Temperature | 67°C (153°F) | 67.2°C (153.0°F) |
| Fermentation Temperature | 19-20°C (66-68°F) | 19.5°C (67.1°F) |
The Brewer’s Hook: Chasing the Cloud
When I first set out to clone the Eight Finger Eddie, I admit, I stumbled. My initial attempts yielded a decent IPA, but it lacked that signature opaque haze, that soft, pillowy mouthfeel, and the explosive aromatics I knew from the original. My mistake was simple: I treated it like a West Coast IPA with more hops. I over-boiled, under-flocculated, and didn’t fully grasp the critical role of specific water chemistry and precise dry hopping timing. It took me several iterations, meticulously tracking specific gravity and pH readings at every stage, to truly understand the nuances of a top-tier New England IPA. This article lays out the exact process that finally nailed it for me, drawing on two decades of my personal brewing experience.
The “Math” Section: Deconstructing the Haze and Juice
Achieving the unique characteristics of Eight Finger Eddie isn’t just about throwing in a lot of hops; it’s a calculated balance of fermentable sugars, unfermentable dextrins, and targeted mineral additions. Here’s the breakdown for a 5.5-gallon batch (into the fermenter), targeting 75% brewhouse efficiency, along with the critical formulas I rely on.
Grain Bill Composition (5.5 Gallons / 20.8 Liters)
| Ingredient | Weight (kg) | Weight (lbs) | Percentage (%) | Role |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pale Malt (2-row/Maris Otter) | 4.08 kg | 9.0 lbs | 64.3% | Base fermentable sugars |
| Flaked Oats | 1.59 kg | 3.5 lbs | 25.0% | Haze, mouthfeel, protein structure |
| Flaked Wheat | 0.68 kg | 1.5 lbs | 10.7% | Haze, mouthfeel, head retention |
| Total Grain | 6.35 kg | 14.0 lbs | 100% |
Water Profile Targets (for 10 gallons / 37.8 Liters of mash water + sparge)
I build my water from distilled or reverse osmosis. This gives me complete control. For a NEIPA, a high chloride-to-sulfate ratio is paramount for a soft mouthfeel and hop expression. I found a Cl:SO4 ratio of ~3:1 works best.
| Ion | Target Concentration (ppm) | Addition for 10 Gal. (g) |
|---|---|---|
| Calcium (Ca²⁺) | 110-120 | 10g CaSO4 (Gypsum) + 20g CaCl2 |
| Magnesium (Mg²⁺) | 10-15 | Minimal naturally present |
| Sodium (Na⁺) | 20-30 | |
| Chloride (Cl⁻) | 220-250 | 20g CaCl2 (Calcium Chloride) |
| Sulfate (SO₄²⁻) | 70-80 | 10g CaSO4 (Gypsum) |
| Mash pH | 5.2 – 5.3 | Adjust with Lactic Acid |
Key Calculation Formulas
- Apparent Attenuation (AA): Measures the percentage of sugar consumed by yeast.
AA = ((OG - FG) / (OG - 1)) * 100
My batch #GBC-EFE-007: ((1.066 – 1.016) / (1.066 – 1)) * 100 = 75.7% - Alcohol by Volume (ABV) from Gravity: A reliable standard for homebrewers.
ABV = (OG - FG) * 131.25
My batch #GBC-EFE-007: (1.066 – 1.016) * 131.25 = 6.56% - Mash Thickness (Liters per Kilogram): Crucial for enzymatic activity.
Mash Thickness = Total Mash Water (L) / Total Grain (kg)
For my 6.35 kg grain bill and 20 L strike water: 20 L / 6.35 kg = 3.15 L/kg. This is a good ratio for a NEIPA, promoting beta-glucan breakdown and aiding filtration, despite the high flaked grain content.
Step-by-Step Execution: My Proven Process
This is the detailed method I follow to consistently achieve the Eight Finger Eddie clone. Every step is critical for repeatability and quality.
- Water Treatment:
- Start with **20 liters (5.3 gallons)** of RO or distilled water for the mash, and **18 liters (4.7 gallons)** for the sparge.
- Add **10g Calcium Sulfate (Gypsum)** and **20g Calcium Chloride** to your mash water.
- Heat mash water to **71°C (160°F)** to hit strike temperature.
- Check mash pH. Adjust with **88% Lactic Acid** drop by drop until pH reads **5.2 – 5.3** at mash temperature.
- Mash In:
- Dough in your grain bill (6.35 kg / 14.0 lbs total) ensuring no dry spots.
- Maintain a mash temperature of **67°C (153°F)** for **60 minutes**. This temperature promotes a balance of fermentable sugars and unfermentable dextrins, crucial for body and haze.
- After 60 minutes, raise the temperature to **76°C (170°F)** for a **10-minute** mash out.
- Sparge & Boil:
- Recirculate until run-off is clear. Sparge with your pre-treated **18 liters (4.7 gallons)** of sparge water at **77°C (170°F)**. Aim for a pre-boil volume of **24.5 liters (6.5 gallons)**.
- Bring to a rolling boil for **60 minutes**. I do NOT add hops during the boil for a NEIPA to minimize bitterness and maximize aroma retention in later stages. This is a departure from traditional IPA brewing and crucial for this style.
- Whirlpool Hop Additions (The Hot Side Key):
- At flameout, immediately cool the wort to **77°C (170°F)**. I use my immersion chiller.
- Once at **77°C (170°F)**, add:
- **56g (2 oz) Citra (T90)**
- **56g (2 oz) Mosaic (T90)**
- Whirlpool for **20 minutes**. My method involves stirring vigorously for 1 minute, then letting it rest for 4 minutes, repeating this cycle four times.
- Chill rapidly to **18°C (64°F)**.
- Fermentation & First Dry Hop:
- Transfer wort to a sanitized fermenter, aiming for a post-boil volume of **20.8 liters (5.5 gallons)**.
- Pitch one sachet (**11.5g**) of LalBrew Verdant IPA yeast (or Wyeast 1318 London Ale III liquid yeast, 2L starter). Hydrate dry yeast according to manufacturer instructions at **25-27°C (77-80°F)** before pitching.
- Ferment at a controlled temperature of **19-20°C (66-68°F)**. My fermentation chamber maintains this with a +/- 0.5°C variance.
- On Day **3-4** of active fermentation (when gravity has dropped by approximately 30-40% from OG, typically around 1.040-1.035), perform the first dry hop. Open fermenter, gently add:
- **84g (3 oz) Citra (T90)**
- **56g (2 oz) Mosaic (T90)**
Close the fermenter quickly to minimize oxygen exposure.
- Second Dry Hop & Cold Crash:
- Monitor gravity. Once fermentation is complete and gravity is stable at your target FG (**1.014-1.018**) for two consecutive days (usually Day 7-10), perform the second dry hop. This stage maximizes aroma without biotransformation. Add:
- **84g (3 oz) Galaxy (T90)**
- **56g (2 oz) Mosaic (T90)**
- Allow **2-3 days** contact time for the second dry hop at fermentation temperature.
- After dry hopping, cold crash to **1-4°C (34-39°F)** for **48-72 hours**. This helps settle hop matter and yeast, while retaining haze.
- Monitor gravity. Once fermentation is complete and gravity is stable at your target FG (**1.014-1.018**) for two consecutive days (usually Day 7-10), perform the second dry hop. This stage maximizes aroma without biotransformation. Add:
- Packaging:
- Kegging is highly recommended for NEIPAs to minimize oxidation. Purge keg with CO2 multiple times before transferring.
- Transfer beer under CO2 pressure (closed transfer) directly from fermenter to keg.
- Carbonate to **2.4 – 2.6 volumes** of CO2 at serving temperature.
- If bottling, ensure minimal oxygen exposure. Use oxygen-scavenging caps and consume quickly. For more details on oxygen management, visit BrewMyBeer.online.
Troubleshooting: What Can Go Wrong
Brewing a NEIPA is a delicate dance. My experience has shown these are the most common pitfalls:
- Lack of Haze: This usually comes down to insufficient flaked grains (oats/wheat), improper water chemistry (too much sulfate), or crashing too aggressively before primary fermentation is complete. Ensure your protein levels are high and your Cl:SO4 ratio favors chloride.
- Oxidation (Dull, Cardboard Flavors): The nemesis of NEIPAs. Any exposure to oxygen after fermentation starts is detrimental. Common culprits: splashing during transfer, unpurged kegs, or not performing closed transfers. My early batches suffered from this, resulting in a significantly reduced shelf life and muted hop character.
- Grassy/Vegetal Hop Flavors: Often a result of excessive dry hop contact time (more than 3-4 days per stage) or storing the beer warm with dry hops for too long. Stick to the contact times specified in my process.
- Diacetyl (Buttery/Butterscotch): While Verdant IPA yeast is generally low diacetyl producer, insufficient fermentation time or too rapid a cold crash can leave residual diacetyl. Ensure your fermentation fully completes and consider a diacetyl rest at the end of primary fermentation if you suspect issues, by raising temperature to 21-22°C for 24-48 hours.
- Thin Body: Mash temperature too low (below 66°C / 150°F) leading to too high attenuation, or insufficient amounts of flaked grains. My **67°C (153°F)** mash temperature for **60 minutes** is specifically chosen to mitigate this.
Sensory Analysis: My Notes on the Perfect Clone
After many attempts, here’s what I observe in a successful batch of my Eight Finger Eddie clone:
- Appearance: It pours with an opaque, hazy, pale straw to light golden color. Absolutely no transparency, resembling a glass of fresh orange juice. A dense, persistent white head forms, clinging to the glass with excellent lacing. This haze is stable, even after weeks in the keg.
- Aroma: An explosion of tropical fruit – ripe mango, passionfruit, and juicy pineapple are immediately apparent, backed by notes of sweet orange zest and a hint of stone fruit like peach. There’s a subtle undertone of resinous pine, but it’s secondary to the fruit. No discernable hop harshness or vegetal notes, just pure, clean hop aromatics.
- Mouthfeel: The body is medium-full, creamy, and undeniably soft, almost pillowy. It coats the palate without being syrupy. Low bitterness is evident, allowing the hop flavors to shine without any astringency. The carbonation is medium, lifting the flavors without being overly effervescent, contributing to the overall softness.
- Flavor: The flavor mirrors the aroma, delivering a wave of bright, ripe tropical and citrus fruits. Mango and passionfruit lead, followed by juicy orange and subtle grapefruit. The bitterness is incredibly restrained, providing just enough balance to prevent cloying sweetness. There’s a clean, slightly sweet malt backbone that supports the hops, but it never takes center stage. The finish is soft, juicy, and remarkably smooth, inviting the next sip. No harsh alcohol presence, despite the ABV.
What specific yeast strain provides the best NEIPA characteristics for this clone?
My go-to choice, based on extensive experimentation, is LalBrew Verdant IPA. It consistently produces the desired tropical fruit esters, enhances hop biotransformation, and leaves behind a perfect level of residual sweetness and haze. Wyeast 1318 (London Ale III) is an excellent liquid yeast alternative, offering similar performance.
How critical is the closed transfer method for a NEIPA clone?
Extremely critical. New England IPAs are highly susceptible to oxidation, which rapidly degrades their delicate hop aromas and flavors, turning them dull and cardboard-like. A closed transfer, moving beer from fermenter to keg or packaging vessel under CO2 pressure, minimizes oxygen exposure significantly. Without it, you’re compromising the integrity of your hard work. You can find more comprehensive guides on oxygen management and packaging techniques at BrewMyBeer.online.
Can I bottle this clone recipe successfully, or is kegging essential?
While kegging is undeniably superior for preserving the integrity of a NEIPA due to better oxygen control, you can bottle this clone successfully with strict precautions. Ensure your bottles are scrupulously clean and sanitized. Use oxygen-scavenging crown caps. Minimize splashing during bottling. Consume the bottled beer as fresh as possible, ideally within 2-4 weeks, as even with the best efforts, bottled NEIPAs will oxidize faster than their kegged counterparts. For me, bottling has always been a compromise with this style.