Clone Recipe: Pacifico Clara

Cloning Pacifico Clara requires precise control over an all-malt pilsner grist, a clean lager yeast, and meticulous fermentation management. My experience has shown that targeting an Original Gravity of 1.044, fermenting cleanly at 11-12°C, and then lagering extensively at near-freezing temperatures is crucial for achieving its signature crisp, light-bodied character with a balanced hop profile and exceptional clarity.

The Quest for Clarity: My Pacifico Clara Clone Journey

I remember the first time I set out to clone a Mexican Lager. My initial attempts were, to put it mildly, a disaster. I rushed fermentation, didn’t control my mash temperatures precisely enough, and ended up with a beer that was cloudy, overtly sweet, and tasted more like a homebrew mishap than a crisp, refreshing lager. The clarity eluded me, and the subtle nuances of Pacifico Clara seemed like an impossible dream. It was a humbling experience, but one that taught me the absolute necessity of patience, precision, and a deep understanding of yeast behavior, especially with lagers. Over two decades of brewing have taught me that achieving true “clone” status isn’t about guessing; it’s about reverse-engineering with data. This isn’t just a recipe; it’s a breakdown of the specific steps and metrics I’ve refined over many batches to get as close as possible to that iconic sunny lager.

The Math Behind the Mexican Lager

Brewing isn’t just an art; it’s a science, heavily reliant on mathematics. To replicate Pacifico Clara, we need to dial in our gravity, bitterness, and even water chemistry. Here’s how I approach the calculations for a 19-liter (5-gallon) batch.

Grain Bill Calculation for OG 1.044

My target OG of 1.044 demands specific fermentable contributions. I typically work with a brewhouse efficiency of 75%. To achieve this OG, a total fermentable extract of approximately 10.9 Plato is needed. Here’s my typical grain bill:

Hop Bitterness (IBU) Calculation

To achieve the target 20 IBU, I typically use a single bittering hop addition. The formula for IBU is complex, but a simplified approach for a 60-minute boil with a good alpha acid hop can be used for estimation. Let’s assume a 5.0% Alpha Acid (AA) Hallertau Mittelfrüh and a 25% utilization for a 60-minute boil.

IBU = (Hop Weight (g) * AA% * Utilization %) / (Volume (L) * 10)

To hit 20 IBU for 19 L:

20 = (Hop Weight * 5.0 * 25) / (19 * 10)

20 = (Hop Weight * 125) / 190

3800 = Hop Weight * 125

Hop Weight = 3800 / 125 = 30.4 grams

So, approximately **30 grams (1.06 oz) of 5% AA Hallertau Mittelfrüh** for 60 minutes.

Water Chemistry Targets

For lagers, water profile is critical. I start with reverse osmosis (RO) water and build it up. My target profile, based on my research into similar styles, is:

I achieve this using gypsum (CaSO4), calcium chloride (CaCl2), and a touch of Epsom salt (MgSO4). Lactic acid or phosphoric acid is used to adjust mash pH to between **5.2 and 5.4** at mash temperature, as this is crucial for enzyme activity and extract efficiency.

Step-by-Step Execution: Brewing Your Pacifico Clone

This process demands vigilance and adherence to precise temperatures and timings. This is how I execute a brew day for this specific clone:

1. Milling the Grains

   I start by milling the **3.60 kg (7.94 lbs) Pilsner malt** and **0.40 kg (0.88 lbs) flaked maize**. I aim for a crush that leaves the husks largely intact but breaks the endosperm sufficiently to expose starch for conversion. This balances efficiency with avoiding astringency.

2. Mash In and Conversion

   I heat my treated brewing water to achieve a mash-in temperature of **68°C (154.4°F)**, then slowly add the milled grains to hit a mash temperature of exactly **65°C (149°F)**. My mash thickness is usually around 2.8 L/kg (1.35 qt/lb). I hold this temperature for **60 minutes**. This single-infusion rest favors beta-amylase activity, producing a highly fermentable wort essential for a crisp, dry finish.

   After 60 minutes, I perform a mash-out by raising the mash temperature to **76°C (169°F)** and hold for 10 minutes. This halts enzyme activity and reduces wort viscosity for better sparging.

3. Sparge and Run-off

   I begin recirculating the wort until it runs clear, typically for about 15-20 minutes. Then, I slowly begin collecting the wort while sparging with water heated to **77°C (170°F)**. I target a pre-boil volume of approximately **25 liters (6.6 US gallons)**, ensuring I have enough to account for boil-off and trub loss to hit my final 19-liter target.

4. The Boil

   Once my kettle is full, I bring the wort to a vigorous rolling boil. As soon as the boil begins, I add **30 grams (1.06 oz) of Hallertau Mittelfrüh (5% AA)** for a 60-minute bittering addition. After 45 minutes of the boil, I add **1 tsp of Irish Moss or 1/2 tablet of Whirlfloc** to aid in clarity. The total boil time is **60 minutes**. During the boil, I constantly monitor for boil-overs and ensure consistent heat.

5. Chilling and Wort Transfer

   Immediately after the 60-minute boil, I rapidly chill the wort using an immersion chiller to a pitching temperature of **10°C (50°F)**. Speed here is crucial to minimize DMS formation and reduce the risk of infection. Once chilled, I transfer the wort to a sanitized fermenter, ensuring good aeration during the transfer to provide oxygen for yeast health.

6. Fermentation

   I pitch a healthy, adequately sized starter of a clean German or American Lager yeast (e.g., WLP830 German Lager or WLP833 German Bock Lager). For a 19-liter batch at 1.044 OG, I target a pitch rate of approximately 1.5 million cells/ml/°P, which typically means a **2-liter starter for a liquid yeast culture**. I allow the fermenter to free rise to a primary fermentation temperature of **11-12°C (52-54°F)**. Fermentation usually lasts 7-10 days, or until the gravity drops to about 1.012.

   Diacetyl Rest

   Once the gravity is within 2-3 points of my target FG (around 1.010-1.011), I raise the temperature to **16-18°C (61-64°F)** for a diacetyl rest, holding it for 2-3 days. This allows the yeast to reabsorb diacetyl and its precursors, which are responsible for butterscotch or buttered popcorn off-flavors. This step is non-negotiable for a clean lager.

7. Lagering and Cold Crash

   After the diacetyl rest and once fermentation is complete (FG of **1.008** is consistently measured for 2 days), I cold crash the beer to **0-2°C (32-36°F)** and then transfer it to a secondary fermenter or keg for lagering. I lager the beer for a minimum of **4 weeks**, ideally 6-8 weeks, at this near-freezing temperature. This extended cold conditioning is vital for the beer’s clarity and flavor maturation, allowing harsh flavors to mellow and yeast/proteins to drop out. For more details on this critical phase, check out BrewMyBeer.online.

8. Packaging

   After lagering, I transfer the beer to kegs or bottles. For kegging, I force carbonate to **2.6 volumes of CO2** at 2°C (36°F). For bottling, I prime with **100-110 grams of dextrose** for the 19-liter batch to achieve the same carbonation level, then bottle condition at room temperature for 2-3 weeks before moving to cold storage.

   What Can Go Wrong: Troubleshooting Your Lager Clone

   Lagering is a rigorous process, and several issues can derail your clone. My years of experience have taught me to look out for these common pitfalls:

   • Cloudiness/Haze: If your beer isn’t brilliantly clear, several factors could be at play.
     • Insufficient Lagering: The most common culprit. Patience is paramount. Extend lagering time.
     • Poor Cold Crash: If you didn’t crash quickly enough or cold enough before lagering, more material might stay in suspension.
     • Protein Haze: If you skipped Irish Moss/Whirlfloc or didn’t get a good cold break during chilling.
     • Starch Haze: Improper mash conversion (mash temp too high, or not long enough) can leave starches. Ensure your mash is fully converted by doing an iodine test.
   • Diacetyl (Buttery/Butterscotch): This is a classic lager flaw.
     • Skipped or Insufficient Diacetyl Rest: You MUST raise the temperature after primary fermentation to allow the yeast to clean up.
     • Underpitching: Not enough healthy yeast can lead to sluggish fermentation and insufficient diacetyl cleanup.
   • Green Apple/Grassy Notes (Acetaldehyde): Another common off-flavor indicating an immature beer.
     • Rushed Fermentation: The yeast hasn’t had enough time to convert acetaldehyde to ethanol. Extend primary fermentation or lagering.
     • Oxidation Post-Fermentation: Introducing oxygen after primary fermentation can cause acetaldehyde to form. Always be mindful of oxygen exposure during transfers. For more brewing tips and tricks, visit BrewMyBeer.online.
   • Overly Sweet or Under-Attenuated: If your FG is too high.
     • High Mash Temperature: Mashing too high (e.g., 68°C+) produces less fermentable sugars. Stick to **65°C** for good attenuation.
     • Unhealthy Yeast: Underpitching or poor yeast viability can lead to stuck fermentation.

   Sensory Analysis: What to Expect from Your Clone

   When I pour a properly executed Pacifico Clara clone, I expect a specific sensory experience that perfectly matches the commercial original. This is what I look for:

   • Appearance: It should be brilliantly clear, radiating a pale straw to light gold color (SRM 2-3). Expect a sparkling effervescence and a bright, persistent white head with fine bubbles that lace the glass elegantly. Any haziness is an immediate flag that something went awry during conditioning.
   • Aroma: The first impression should be clean and crisp. I typically detect a very subtle sweet malt note, almost cracker-like, from the pilsner malt. There should be no strong hop aroma; rather, a faint, noble hop character might emerge – delicate floral or spicy undertones, if any. Crucially, it should be free of any yeast esters (fruity notes) or diacetyl (butterscotch).
   • Mouthfeel: Light-bodied and extremely refreshing. The carbonation should be medium-high, providing a pleasant tingle on the tongue without being overly prickly. It finishes dry and crisp, leaving the palate clean and ready for the next sip. No cloying sweetness or heavy body should be present.
   • Flavor: The flavor mirrors the aroma: clean, malty, and slightly sweet up front, followed by a restrained bitterness that perfectly balances the malt. The flaked maize contributes to a subtle, almost corn-like sweetness without being sugary, enhancing drinkability. The hop flavor is low, providing just enough balance without standing out. The finish is notably dry and exceptionally clean, with no lingering aftertastes. It’s a beer designed for repeat enjoyment.

   Frequently Asked Questions About Cloning Pacifico Clara

   What is the ideal yeast for this style, and how much should I pitch?

   I find that a clean, neutral German or American Lager yeast works best. My go-to choices are WLP830 German Lager, WLP833 German Bock Lager, or Fermentis Saflager W-34/70. For a 1.044 OG in a 19-liter batch, I always aim for a pitch rate of approximately 1.5 million cells/ml/°P. This usually translates to a 2-liter yeast starter for liquid cultures, or rehydrating 2 packs of dry lager yeast to ensure a robust, clean fermentation.

   Can I use corn sugar instead of flaked maize?

   While corn sugar (dextrose) can contribute fermentable sugars and lighten the body, I prefer flaked maize. Flaked maize adds a subtle, characteristic corn-like sweetness and mouthfeel that I find closer to the commercial beer, contributing to that distinctive Mexican Lager profile. Dextrose ferments out completely, leaving a thinner body and potentially less complexity.

   How long should I really lager this beer? Is 2 weeks enough?

   Based on my experience, 2 weeks is rarely enough for a truly clean, clear, and matured lager. I strongly advocate for a minimum of **4 weeks**, with 6-8 weeks being ideal for this style. Lagering isn’t just about clarifying; it’s about flavor maturation and the yeast cleaning up subtle off-flavors that are more pronounced in lagers. Patience here is rewarded with a significantly better beer.

   What if my water is hard? Do I still need to build from RO water?

   If your local water profile is significantly hard or has high mineral content, especially high bicarbonate, starting with RO or distilled water gives you complete control. Trying to “subtract” minerals is far harder than “adding” them. Building from a blank slate allows you to precisely hit the low-mineral profile ideal for crisp, pale lagers, preventing harshness or off-flavors from excessive mineral interactions.

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