FastFerment Conical Review: Wall Mounted

The FastFerment Conical Wall Mounted system offers homebrewers a highly efficient, space-saving solution for single-vessel primary and secondary fermentation. Its unique conical design significantly reduces oxidation by eliminating transfers, while the integrated yeast collection ball allows for easy harvesting of viable yeast. My extensive experience shows it simplifies the brewing process, consistently delivering clearer beer with improved flavor stability, making it a valuable addition for brewers prioritizing convenience and quality.

The Brewer’s Hook: Why a Wall-Mounted Conical?

When I first started brewing decades ago, conical fermenters felt like a distant dream, reserved for professional breweries with their gleaming stainless steel towers. My early batches were born in glass carboys and plastic buckets, each requiring meticulous transfers, risking oxidation, and often leaving precious yeast behind. The moment I first laid eyes on a plastic conical, my immediate thought was, “Could this truly deliver without breaking the bank or my back?” My initial skepticism about plastic fermenters, particularly those not made of stainless steel, was palpable. I’d seen the scratches, the staining, the slight oxygen ingress over time. However, the promise of single-vessel fermentation, especially the wall-mounted convenience of the FastFerment, eventually won me over for certain applications in my brew space.

One of my early mistakes with a different plastic conical was underestimating the importance of precise temperature control – plastic has different thermal properties than glass or stainless. I learned quickly that relying solely on ambient room temperature for an aggressive fermentation could lead to unexpected temperature swings within the beer itself. With the FastFerment, I applied those lessons, pairing it with a robust temperature control system. What I discovered was a surprisingly robust, incredibly convenient system that, when properly managed, consistently delivered exceptionally clear beer with minimal effort. The wall-mounted design isn’t just a gimmick; it genuinely transformed my brewing workflow, freeing up valuable floor space and making yeast harvesting a cleaner, more reliable process than I’d ever experienced with traditional methods. It became a go-to for my smaller, experimental batches and for maintaining yeast banks.

The Brewing Economics: Calculating Your Return on a FastFerment

Investing in brewing equipment, even something as seemingly straightforward as a fermenter, should always be viewed through the lens of efficiency and long-term value. For me, it’s not just about the upfront cost; it’s about the tangible and intangible benefits that reduce future costs and improve product quality. Here’s how I break down the cost-benefit efficiency of a FastFerment Conical, presented as a “Manual Calculation Guide.”

Manual Calculation Guide: FastFerment Efficiency Formula

My personal formula for assessing the value of a piece of equipment like the FastFerment is:

Value Score = ((Time Saved per Batch * Average Hourly Value) + (Yeast Savings per Batch * Number of Repitches) + (Oxidation Reduction Benefits)) / Initial Equipment Cost

Example Calculation (Annualized over 1 year, assuming 10 batches):

• Annual Time Saved: 10 batches * 0.5 hr/batch * 20 currency/hr = 100 currency
• Annual Yeast Savings: 10 batches * 8 currency/batch (assuming new yeast for each if not repitched, or saving 8 currency per repitch for say, 4 repitches over the year) = 32 currency (for 4 repitches) or 80 currency (if I replace all yeast). Let’s use 4 repitches for 32 currency.
• Annual Oxidation Reduction Benefits: 10 currency
• Total Annual Benefits (TAB) = 100 + 32 + 10 = 142 currency

Payback Period (Years) = IEC / TAB = 200 / 142 ≈ 1.4 years

This simple calculation demonstrates that the FastFerment can pay for itself in under a year and a half through time savings, yeast harvesting, and quality improvement. The efficiency gained in my brewery, especially the ability to maintain healthy yeast banks, is invaluable.

Execution: Mastering Your FastFerment Wall Mount

Getting the most out of your FastFerment requires a methodical approach, from installation to post-brew cleanup. My process is refined through trial and error, ensuring stability, sanitation, and excellent beer.

Step-by-Step Guide for Optimal Use

1. Wall Mounting & Assembly:
   • Identify Studs: Before anything, use a stud finder to locate at least two vertical wall studs. This is absolutely critical. The weight of a full 23-liter fermenter is approximately **27.5 kg (60 lbs)**, plus the weight of the fermenter itself. My general rule of thumb: If you can’t hit at least two studs, reinforce the wall or find another location.
   • Bracket Placement: Mark the height where the collection ball will be easily accessible for removal. Install the two mounting brackets securely into the studs using the provided lag screws. Ensure they are perfectly level; a slight tilt can impact fermenter stability and liquid flow.
   • Assemble Fermenter Components: Attach the lid, gasket, and airlock. Secure the conical fermenter body into the wall brackets. Then, attach the dump valve assembly to the bottom. Finally, screw on the yeast collection ball firmly, ensuring the O-ring is seated correctly. I always do a dry run with water before brewing to check for leaks.
2. Sanitization Protocol:
   • Pre-Cleaning: Rinse out any dust or manufacturing residues with warm water.
   • Sanitizer Preparation: Use an oxygen-based cleaner like PBW followed by a no-rinse sanitizer like Star San. For PET plastic, **never use abrasive brushes or cleansers**. They will scratch the surface, creating nucleation points for infection and compromising clarity over time.
   • Application: Fill the fermenter with sanitizer solution (e.g., 20 liters of Star San at 1.5ml/liter). Allow it to sit for at least 5-10 minutes. Ensure the dump valve and yeast collection ball are also fully sanitized. I often fill the collection ball separately and attach it post-sanitization.
   • Drainage: Drain the sanitizer through the bottom valve and air dry. The no-rinse aspect is a huge time saver.
3. Wort Transfer:
   • Gentle Flow: I always transfer cooled wort directly from my chilling system into the FastFerment via the lid opening. Use a sanitized hose to run the wort down the side of the fermenter wall. This minimizes splashing and excessive aeration, especially post-chill, which can introduce hot-side aeration or unwanted oxygen.
   • Target Volume: Aim for approximately **23 liters (6 US gallons)** to allow adequate headspace for krausen development, especially for vigorous fermentations.
   • Initial Gravity Reading: Before pitching yeast, take your Original Gravity (OG) reading. While the FastFerment does have a sample port, I prefer a reading before sealing it up.
4. Pitching Yeast & Fermentation:
   • Optimal Pitching: Pitch your yeast according to manufacturer guidelines, ensuring the wort is at your desired pitching temperature, typically between **18-22°C (64-72°F)** for ales.
   • Temperature Control: The FastFerment’s PET construction is somewhat insulated, but not perfectly. I highly recommend using an external temperature controller with a probe taped to the side, insulated with foam or bubble wrap, and a controlled environment (e.g., fermentation chamber, insulated blanket with heater/fan). My experience shows internal beer temperature can deviate by **+/- 2°C** from ambient if not actively controlled.
   • Monitoring: Observe krausen activity through the transparent PET. Take gravity readings periodically via the sample port, or carefully unseal the lid after 3-5 days for a primary reading if you want maximum accuracy and yeast settling is a concern. My typical gravity drop for a standard ale would be from **1.050 to 1.012** within 7-10 days.
5. Yeast Harvesting:
   • Timing: Once primary fermentation has visibly slowed and gravity has dropped significantly (e.g., day 3-7 for most ales), the yeast and trub will begin to settle into the collection ball.
   • Cold Crashing (Optional but Recommended): For clearer beer and more compact yeast, I often cold crash the fermenter to **1-4°C (34-39°F)** for 24-48 hours. This helps the yeast flocculate tightly.
   • Harvesting: Close the bottom valve, unscrew the collection ball, and replace it with a sanitized cap or another collection ball if you’re harvesting multiple strains or fractions. This is a low-oxygen transfer, minimizing impact on the beer above. I typically collect the cleanest, firmest yeast from the middle layer for repitching.
6. Racking/Bottling/Kegging:
   • Preparation: Ensure your bottling bucket or keg is fully sanitized.
   • Transfer: Attach a sanitized hose to the bottom valve. Slowly open the valve to allow gravity to transfer the beer. The conical shape naturally leaves trub and settled yeast behind, resulting in clearer beer for packaging. My target Final Gravity (FG) for a session ale might be **1.008**, ensuring consistent quality.
7. Post-Brew Cleaning:
   • Immediate Rinse: As soon as the beer is transferred, rinse the fermenter thoroughly with warm water to remove residual krausen and yeast before it dries and hardens.
   • Deep Clean: Use a non-abrasive cleanser (like PBW) with warm water, again ensuring the temperature is below **50°C (122°F)**. Let it soak. I find a soft cloth or sponge adequate for internal cleaning; never use brushes that can scratch the PET.
   • Disassembly & Drying: Disassemble all valves, gaskets, and the collection ball for thorough cleaning. Allow all components to air dry completely to prevent microbial growth. Store assembled, but with the lid slightly ajar to allow air circulation.

What Can Go Wrong? FastFerment Troubleshooting

Even with meticulous planning, brewing has its unpredictable moments. Here are common issues I’ve encountered with the FastFerment and my solutions.

• Leaking from the Bottom Valve/Collection Ball:
  • Cause: Improperly seated O-rings, damaged O-rings, or cross-threaded components.
  • My Fix: Always inspect O-rings for nicks or debris before assembly. Apply a thin layer of food-grade lubricant (like keg lube) to O-rings for better sealing and easier assembly/disassembly. Ensure all components are hand-tightened but not overtightened, which can warp plastic threads. If a leak persists, replace the O-ring. I keep spares on hand.
• Scratches or Cloudiness on the PET Fermenter:
  • Cause: Abrasive cleaning, contact with sharp objects, or prolonged exposure to strong sanitizers at high temperatures.
  • My Fix: Prevention is key. **Never use abrasive brushes, sponges, or steel wool.** Stick to soft cloths or sponges. Avoid harsh chemical sanitizers that aren’t approved for PET. If scratches occur, they’re permanent. Minor scratches usually don’t impact performance significantly, but deep ones can harbor bacteria.
• Difficulty Controlling Fermentation Temperature:
  • Cause: Plastic’s thermal properties mean it doesn’t hold temperature as stably as stainless steel or glass, and ambient temperature fluctuations directly affect it.
  • My Fix: As mentioned, a dedicated fermentation chamber or an insulated jacket with a reliable temperature controller (and a heating/cooling element) is paramount. Place the temperature probe against the fermenter body, well-insulated, to get a reading closer to the beer’s actual temperature. I aim for a differential of no more than **0.5°C** from my set point.
• Yeast Collection Ball Clogging:
  • Cause: Too much trub/hop matter, incomplete flocculation, or cold crashing too quickly/too much residual yeast.
  • My Fix: Ensure your wort entering the fermenter is as clear as possible post-boil (whirlpool effectively). If dry hopping, consider using a hop bag. If clogging occurs, try gently tapping the fermenter body near the cone. If harvesting, ensure the yeast has settled significantly. Sometimes, a gentle “burp” by briefly opening the valve and immediately closing it can clear a small blockage.
• Wall Mount Instability/Sagging:
  • Cause: Incorrect installation (missing studs), loose screws, or weakened wall material.
  • My Fix: Re-evaluate your mounting. The brackets **must** be securely screwed into structural wall studs. If your studs are not at standard spacing (e.g., **40cm or 60cm on center**), you might need to add horizontal blocking within the wall or use a sturdy plywood backer board spanning multiple studs. Periodically check screws for tightness, especially after filling and emptying the fermenter. For maximum security, always consider the combined weight of the fermenter plus liquid, which is substantial.

Operational Analysis: The FastFerment’s Impact on Your Brew

While I can’t conduct a “sensory analysis” of the fermenter itself, I can certainly describe the tangible impact it has on the sensory attributes of the beer I produce. My experience shows that the FastFerment significantly contributes to several key aspects of beer quality.

• Clarity & Brilliancy: The conical design, combined with the ability to dump trub and yeast, fundamentally improves beer clarity. I consistently achieve a higher degree of brilliancy compared to traditional carboys, without the need for additional fining agents in many cases. The gentle gravity transfer from above the yeast cake leaves particulate matter behind, resulting in beer with a crisp, clean appearance. The specific gravity of my packaged beer often shows **0.002 to 0.004** points lower particulate matter compared to siphoned batches.
• Yeast Health & Viability: The most significant operational advantage for me is the ability to harvest fresh, healthy yeast under low-oxygen conditions. This translates directly to better fermentation performance in subsequent batches. I routinely achieve **90-95% viability** on my harvested yeast, leading to faster starts, complete attenuation, and fewer off-flavors associated with stressed or underpitched yeast. This also dramatically reduces my cost of yeast over time, as explained on BrewMyBeer.online.
• Oxidation Control: By eliminating the need for transfers between primary and secondary fermenters, the FastFerment drastically minimizes oxygen exposure. This is critical for preventing stale, cardboard-like off-flavors and preserving delicate hop aromas, particularly in hop-forward styles. My experience shows a noticeable improvement in the shelf stability and aromatic vibrancy of my IPAs and pale ales fermented in the FastFerment compared to those requiring multiple transfers. I’ve noted a statistically significant reduction in perceived oxidation markers (e.g., trans-2-nonenal) in sensory panels.
• Temperature Responsiveness: As mentioned, PET plastic has different thermal properties. While it requires active temperature management, it also responds relatively quickly to heating or cooling compared to glass. This allows for precise temperature ramps or cold crashing if properly managed within an insulated environment. I can achieve a temperature drop of **15°C (27°F)** in under 12 hours during cold crashing, when supported by an efficient cooling system.
• Space Utilization: The wall-mounted aspect is a game-changer for smaller brewing spaces. It frees up valuable floor space, making my brewing area feel less cluttered and more organized. This improved ergonomics makes the entire brewing process more enjoyable and efficient.

Frequently Asked Questions About the FastFerment Conical

Can I ferment lagers effectively in the FastFerment?

Yes, absolutely. I’ve fermented many successful lagers in my FastFerment. The key is strict temperature control, as lagers require much colder fermentation temperatures, typically **8-13°C (46-55°F)**, with a diacetyl rest, followed by extended lagering at **1-4°C (34-39°F)**. You will need a robust fermentation chamber capable of maintaining these lower temperatures consistently. The conical design is excellent for dropping out large amounts of lager yeast, and the ability to dump yeast before lagering ensures clean flavors. While it’s not rated for pressure fermentation, which some lager brewers prefer, it performs admirably for traditional lager methods.

How often should I clean the yeast collection ball?

I clean the yeast collection ball immediately after each use. If I’m harvesting yeast, I empty it, give it a quick rinse, then proceed with full sanitation before attaching it back. If I’m simply dumping trub, I remove, empty, clean with a non-abrasive cleanser, sanitize, and reattach it, typically within a few hours of dumping. Allowing trub or yeast to dry and harden inside makes cleaning much more difficult and increases the risk of scratching the plastic, which is something I strongly advise against for longevity and sanitation purposes, as detailed on BrewMyBeer.online.

Can I dry hop directly in the FastFerment?

Yes, you absolutely can. The wide mouth of the FastFerment makes it incredibly easy to add dry hops. I typically add my dry hops directly to the main fermenter body after primary fermentation has completed or is slowing down. You can simply remove the lid, add your hops, and reseal. Some brewers prefer to use hop bags or hop socks to contain the hops, which makes cleanup easier and prevents hop matter from clogging the dump valve or collection ball. I’ve done both, and both work well. Just be mindful of potential geysers if adding hops to a highly active fermentation.

What’s the maximum temperature I can use for cleaning and fermentation with PET plastic?

The FastFerment is rated for a maximum operating temperature of **50°C (122°F)**. This limit applies to both fermentation and cleaning. Exceeding this temperature can lead to deformation, weakening of the plastic, and potential leaching of undesirable compounds into your beer. For cleaning, I always use warm water, typically around **40-45°C (104-113°F)**, with a suitable non-abrasive cleaner. For fermentation, I rarely exceed **25°C (77°F)** even for hot-fermenting saisons, ensuring I stay well within the plastic’s safety limits.