How to Build a Kegerator at Home: DIY Guide to Draft Beer Excellence

Last updated: May 18, 2026

Building a kegerator from a chest freezer is one of the most satisfying homebrew equipment projects, it takes a Sunday afternoon, costs $150–250 in parts (plus the cost of the freezer), and produces a draft system that you’ll use for every subsequent brew day. I converted a 7-cubic-foot chest freezer to a dual-tap kegerator five years ago and it’s been the most-used piece of equipment in my brewery. Draft beer from a proper cold kegerator is fundamentally better than bottles, no risk of over-carbonation, no bottle-to-bottle variation, and you can pour a perfect glass in seconds.

Choosing the right chest freezer

A 7-cubic-foot chest freezer holds two standard 5-gallon Cornelius kegs side by side, the most common configuration for homebrewers. A 5-cubic-foot freezer holds one keg comfortably. Measure the interior dimensions before buying: you need at least 23″ × 13″ of floor space per Cornelius keg. Many chest freezers have a hump on the bottom (the compressor) that reduces usable floor space, check the actual usable interior, not just the rated volume. Popular models: Frigidaire FFFC07M4TW (7.2 cu ft), Midea WHS-258C1 (7.0 cu ft), GE FCM7SKWW (7.0 cu ft). Buy new or find a clean used unit, the chest freezer is the biggest cost variable in this build.

Temperature controller

A chest freezer runs too cold for beer storage, you need a temperature controller that overrides the freezer’s built-in thermostat. The Inkbird ITC-308 is the most popular homebrewing choice at $25–35: plug the freezer into the cooling outlet, set your target temperature (34–38°F for beer storage), and the controller cycles the freezer on and off to maintain that temperature. The temperature probe goes inside the kegerator (tape it to the side of a keg for an accurate reading). The Inkbird controllers are reliable and accurate to ±1°F, no issues in years of use from dozens of homebrewing installations.

Draft hardware

• CO2 tank: 5 lb CO2 cylinder is the standard homebrewing size, holds enough CO2 for 5–7 kegs before refilling. Local homebrew shops, fire extinguisher shops, and welding suppliers fill CO2 cylinders.
• Regulator: A dual-gauge CO2 regulator ($35–60) shows tank pressure and output pressure. For a basic single-keg setup, a single-body regulator works. For multiple kegs at different pressures, a dual-body regulator or manifold is needed.
• Gas line: 1/4″ ID vinyl or EVABarrier tubing from the regulator to the keg ball lock post. EVABarrier is preferred over vinyl for long-term use, vinyl develops CO2 permeability and can contribute off-flavors over time.
• Beer line: 3/16″ ID vinyl beer line from the keg to the tap. Line length determines back-pressure and flow rate, typically 6–10 feet at serving pressure (10–12 PSI) for proper pour balance.
• Faucet and shank: A standard Perlick or Intertap stainless faucet with a chrome or stainless shank. The shank passes through a hole in the kegerator wall. Perlick forward-sealing faucets ($40–60) don’t stick between pours, the standard recommendation for homebrewing.
• Cornelius kegs (ball lock): 5-gallon used ball lock kegs from homebrew suppliers or used equipment markets, $30–60 each. New kegs from Kegland or similar, $80–120.

Build steps

1. Set the chest freezer in its permanent location, it won’t be easy to move once built out.
2. Drill a hole through the back wall of the freezer lid or the upper side wall for the CO2 line (3/4″ hole for the gas line grommet). Drill through the front face for each tap shank (typically 7/8″ hole).
3. Install grommets in all drilled holes to protect lines from sharp metal edges.
4. Mount the CO2 tank outside the kegerator, either attached to the side with a bracket or on the floor nearby. Run the gas line through the grommet into the kegerator interior.
5. Install tap shanks through the front-face holes. Connect beer lines to the shanks inside and connect faucets to the shanks outside.
6. Plug the chest freezer into the Inkbird temperature controller. Set target temperature to 36°F. Allow to cool for 2 hours before loading kegs.
7. Connect CO2 to kegs at 10–12 PSI serving pressure. Connect beer lines. Pull the tap to verify flow.

Common Questions

How do I carbonate beer in a keg?

Two methods: set-and-forget (connect CO2 at serving pressure, 10–12 PSI for most ales at 38°F, and wait 5–7 days for the beer to naturally absorb CO2 to equilibrium), or burst carbonation (connect at 30 PSI for 24–48 hours, then reduce to serving pressure). Set-and-forget produces the most consistent results with less risk of over-carbonation; burst carbonation is faster. Both work well when the keg is cold, carbonation rate is much faster at cold temperatures. If your beer is still warm from fermentation, chill it to serving temperature first before applying CO2, otherwise the carbonation calculation (which assumes equilibrium at a specific temperature) won’t be accurate.